Chinese Original Designers Have Come To Their Time

On October 15, tmall fashion accessories announced the "innovative original brand incubation plan" in Shanghai, and cooperated with marketing department, intelligent supply chain, kairun group, Dejin group, etc., to provide supply chain and marketing full link empowerment for original designer brands of tmall platform.

The original designer brand of fashion accessories industry is experiencing rapid growth in tmall. It is estimated that in the next three years, tmall fashion accessories plans to cultivate an original designer brand with an annual turnover of 1 billion yuan, 5 companies with an annual turnover of over 100 million yuan, and 20 enterprises with an annual turnover of 50 million yuan, and achieve the "small target" of breaking 10 billion yuan in annual turnover.

This year's tmall double 11, tmall fashion accessories will help 3 original and cutting-edge brands with a turnover of 20 million, and 10 designer brands with more than 10 million.

In the world of fashion accessories, do Chinese original designers have the opportunity to create an internationally famous brand? Now, there is a positive answer to this question.

Explosive growth

In less than a year, the original brands of Chinese designers have broken out in tmall.

"I think I'm good at home!" in May this year, just after the opening of Laurence & Chico flagship store, Chico was shocked by the enthusiasm of consumers on tmall. "I didn't expect the explosive power of tmall platform to be so amazing."

After that, he went to Parsons School of design in New York to continue to study fashion marketing, where he met Chico, who studied fashion design.

Their brands have always been dominated by overseas and offline markets, often displayed with international brands such as Valentino. During the epidemic, the overseas market shrank sharply. Laurence & Chico moved to China and opened its flagship store on tmall.

When the store was just opened, the products of the store were the same as those offline, and the highest price of a single product exceeded 5000 yuan. Chico's expectation for the store is that the monthly sales of 100000 yuan will be satisfied, "just don't let me lose money."

As a result, when the number of fans in the store increased to more than 1000, sales exceeded expectations. After that, "vertical growth" became a normal.

Laurence & Chico is just a miniature of the rapid rise of designer brands on tmall. The original design brand Gulang Jiji, which started from the offline handicraft shop, has grown into an independent designer brand with annual sales of more than 10 million yuan with the help of tmall after it moved to Taobao store. In 618 this year, a mini cigarette pack made by Gu liangjiji has sold well on tmall, selling 20000 cigarettes, driving the rise of the whole summer cigarette pack.

During a visit with the team, general manager of tmall fashion accessories found that there is no lack of excellent original designer brands in China, but they are distributed in various commercial corners online and offline in a scattered way. In December of 2019, it is decided to attract the original brand of tmall in China

No matter for tmall or the original design brand, this is a brand new track. It's not a year for tmall to get a dazzling report card, but it takes less than a year to complete the accessories.

In addition to Laurence & Chico, there are also a number of offline designer brands such as a.cloud, which have successively settled in tmall, and the early designer brands have grown up.

At present, on tmall fashion accessories platform, the monthly sales of 8 brands have exceeded one million within three months, more than 50 original brands have increased by 200% on average year-on-year, and the customer unit price of original design brands is 140% higher than that of the industry average; the cumulative turnover of five brands has exceeded 30 million, that of 15 brands has exceeded 10 million, and that of 26 brands has exceeded 5 million.

Many original brands will participate in tmall double 11 for the first time.

Chenghua is optimistic about the expected performance of original brands. He said that this year's double 11, tmall fashion accessories will be planned to create three more than 20 million, 10 more than 10 million brands, the overall increment will exceed 200 million.

"Growing pains"

Behind the explosive growth is an increasingly mature market.

At present, the market scale of fashion accessories has exceeded 90 billion, and is growing rapidly at the speed of more than 30% every year. This means that in three years' time, the size of the whole industry will double.

In tmall fashion accessories, people under 29 account for more than 60%. Especially for the generation Z after 95, the turnover contribution is close to 50%. The new generation of consumer market is more and more willing to pay for unique design and quality.

Chenghua and the team have no doubt about the market power of domestic original design brands.

Most of the principals of these brands are Chinese students from famous colleges and universities such as London Academy of art, Parsons School of design in New York, Pratt Institute of art, Chicago Academy of art and so on. After graduation, they return home with their dedication to the fashion industry and start their own businesses. They have their own independent attitude towards fashion and believe that good design has a market.

However, Chenghua also knows that compared with top industry brands, these original brands are basically in the initial stage, and have not yet completed the operation of scale and branding, and there are also many shortcomings in the supply chain.

With the rapid growth of traffic and orders, "growing pains" will follow. When the annual revenue scale of the original design brand has reached 100 million, 500 million and 1 billion, the production capacity, performance time, service, customer complaints and other aspects will meet completely different challenges.

Can the managers and designers of the original brand adhere to the design style and also take into account the market demand for quantity? Tmall double 11 is just around the corner, but many brand managers are beating their hearts. Can the flow of traffic flow hold?

Top manufacturers and Alibaba intelligent supply chain join

In the view of tmall fashion accessories, it is the responsibility of the platform to support the original brands to quickly step into the right track and transform to scale and brand. As a result, tmall fashion accessories found domestic manufacturers kairun group and Dejin group, as well as the intelligent supply chain of Alibaba economy, tmall's small black box, tmall super rookie and data bank to build a "top configuration" enabling system. From flexible manufacturing, standard output, digital empowerment to global marketing and consumer insight, original design brands will receive full link and all-round support.

In the fashion field, which is monopolized by international big brands, there were few Chinese brands in the past.

However, fan Jinsong, chairman of kairun group, said that he was optimistic about the future of China's original brands. "During this year's epidemic, sales of women's bags, whether luxury goods or light luxury goods, were growing rapidly. There will be a growing demand for new Chinese goods. In the future, a number of international brands will be born in the field of women's bag accessories in China. "

He also mentioned that China's original accessories brands have obvious shortcomings in supply and rapid response (referred to as "quick response"). Fast response has become a new trend. Kairun has been cooperating with global brands in the manufacturing industry. Every big brand is actively promoting digital transformation. Three years ago, they were promoting fast response. Together with them, carrun has done a lot of preliminary work.

CMO crystal Chan of Dejin group said that many original design brands have too much uncertainty and risk in the aspects of product sales forecast and inventory preparation, "it is suggested that they should make a comprehensive judgment in a planned way, and in the future, they can make accurate research and development with the help of data and high-quality supply chain, and accelerate brand upgrading.".

"So now, we see great opportunities in the accessories industry, and we are willing to cooperate with platforms like Ali to help us connect with designer brand groups and provide rapid response for original design brands in technology research and development, design, materials, technology and other links." Fan Jinsong said.

Many of the original design brands just started have a wide product line and a small number of monochrome orders, so it is difficult to find reliable manufacturers. In order to support the development of original design brand, kairun group also adjusted the order setting standard. "In order to support the growth of the original designer brand, we can adjust the minimum order quantity to a lower level."

Kairun has reached strategic cooperation with some original designer brands of tmall platform. "At present, in the women's bag field, the manufacturing cycle is still about 60 days, but next, we hope that the cycle will be reduced to about two weeks. This is conducive to reducing the inventory of the brand and improving the reaction speed. "

Ali's new manufacturing platform officially appeared last month. Dan Zeng, general manager of the supply chain, said that to do digital empowerment of the supply chain, the first thing is to help brands judge trends and find market opportunities through big data. While quickly obtaining potential customers, they can also adhere to their own design concept. How to combine the characteristics of the luggage industry with the rapid response technology is a problem that every brand should consider.

"For commercial designers, we must combine rationality with sensibility. New intelligent manufacturing will also work with brands to seek full link digitization from consumer behavior to upstream production and manufacturing. " Dan Zeng said.

The first year of Chinese designer brand

In the past, Paris fashion week, New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week and Milan fashion week were big days for fashion brands. Now, "tmall double 11", "tmall club", "super category day", "super new show", "tmall new show" and "little black box" have become the stage for brands to move towards a wider consumer group.

In the upcoming tmall double 11, tmall fashion accessories have specially created five exclusive tracks, including trial, pre-sale, short video, live broadcast and spot. Through strong drainage, brand promotion, crowd reach, category breaking and other means, tmall fashion accessories can find its own way to break out for original design brands.

New brands need to be recognized in the growth process, and tmall fashion accessories has built a perfect content marketing mechanism. Through the content of grass, the brand can cultivate a "top-notch goods" in 15 days. In addition, the station will also open up the content of live video, fashion guide and so on. Only in the circulation of shopping guide content, there are many channels, such as small black box designer new products, global fashion, daily good store, brand dynamic, hot list, experience tab, good goods, and top fashion goods.

In a word, for the original design brand, to grow into an international brand, we must achieve the goal of both supply chain and marketing, create brand influence, commodity influence, stable supply chain, brand value and high-quality service experience.

According to Chico, director of Laurence & Chico, China's supply chain level is very strong. When brands encounter problems of scale and branding in the rising period, they don't need to be too anxious. "First, finish the set goals. When your performance goes up, your team level and supply chain ability will be solved, and these difficulties will eventually be overcome."

Gu Liang, the head of Gu liangjiji, said after the event, "the golden age of Chinese designer bag brand has come. Our design is not only a personal design, but also a collective creation. In the contemporary context, we will always pass it on to the next generation. In the future, China will surely grow a bag brand of * *, which year will be the first year of Chinese designer bag brand? I think it will be this year. Thank tmall for leading us into this era. "