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How Does This Non Heritage "Fire" Happen From Beginning To End?

2019/2/12 10:39:00 22

Intangible HeritageNational TreasureChina Silk Museum

The CCTV program, "national treasure", shows the Chinese silk museum's 3 years' time to restore the loom of the Han Dynasty, and the "five stars, orient China" Shu Brocade unearthed from the ancient city of Xinjiang by the Han Dynasty process of "original flavor".

This restored Shu Brocade made people appreciate the superb technology and weaving technology of the Han Dynasty, and also gave people great interest in Shu brocade.




One




Unique structure to prove identity




The "Han brocade" in the "national treasure" program is actually Shu Brocade because there is no such thing as Han brocade in history.

Wu Min, a famous scholar in Xinjiang, once proved in his thesis "Shu Jin brocade in Turpan" that there is a large number of factual arguments that "the five stars come out of orient China," the brocade is the Chengdu brocade.

One industry insider said.

Moreover, researchers at the China Silk Museum found that the slider loom was excavated from the Han Tomb of the old official hill, which could weave five colored patterns and reproduce the "five stars out of orient China" brocade, which confirms this assertion.




Shu brocade, known as "the world's mother brocade", has had a great impact on the development and prosperity of China's brocade industry.

Chengdu, one of the "five capital" of the Han Dynasty, is the largest brocade center in the Yangtze River Basin, with a large number of export of silk products.

In the Three Kingdoms period, Zhu Geliang set up a good official, and Chengdu became the largest brocade center in China and the world.

Shu brocade has played an important role in the silk road.

Experts believe that after the Han Emperor Wu sent Zhang Qian to open the western region, Shu Brocade soon became one of the protagonists of the Northern Silk Road trade.

A large number of silk fabrics with the signs of Sichuan were excavated along the Northern Silk Road, which is a direct evidence of Shu Jin's activity on the Northern Silk Road.




Wang Chen, secretary and deputy curator of the Suzhou Silk Museum and the inheritor of the weaving technique of Zhang brocade, said she had gone to the scene of the archaeological excavation of Xinjiang's ancient city to study the brocade protective brocade of the five stars.

"The unique structure of each brocade is like its" identity card ", and the structure of Shu Brocade in the Han Dynasty is the five plain weave brocade, which has remained unchanged for thousands of years.

According to this "identity card", there is no doubt that the brocade brocade of "five stars out of orient China" is made from Shu, which is Shu brocade.

"The restoration of the brocade of" five stars in the Orient and China "can prove that we have developed such an advanced loom in the Western Han Dynasty and can produce such exquisite patterns.

Luo Qun, a research librarian at the China Silk Museum, said.




"Chengdu is the only city in the country named after the brocade. Production scale and production technology are unprecedented and indelible in the society at that time.

More than 2000 years ago, the "five stars out of orient China" Shu Brocade is worthy of the national treasure.

Insiders say.




Two




The craft is complex.




Shu brocade has a history of more than 3000 years. Its raw material is silk, and its production process is extremely tedious.

Shu brocade weaving is difficult, with many processes, which belong to many kinds of brocade.




According to the introduction, the brocade meridian line is made up of several groups of dyed mulberry silk as raw material. Weft threads are made from several groups of dyed mulberry silk, viscose filament or other dyed silk as raw materials. Fabric weave consists of plain weave, twill, satin or varied multiple tissues, forming multiple sets of colored silk brocade or brocade brocade, or multiple organizational forms of multi group warp "colored stripe flowers, colored stripes add flowers" or warp and weft flowers.

The color performance of Shu Brocade is not only vivid pattern, pattern, color, but also the bright and elegant characteristics of natural plant (mineral) dyed, and the dyeing technology and the characteristics of halo weaving technology.

The difference between Shu Brocade and other brocade's color techniques is "color dyeing technique" and "halo weaving technique".




The price of Shu Brocade is mainly reflected in its manufacturing process.

To complete a piece of work, from the procedural point of view, it mainly involves more than 10 processes, such as the first draft design, finalization, points of intention, selection of flowers, weaving and weaving, and each procedure involves fifty or sixty unique skills.

A person can not complete a Shu Brocade product. From the small sample design to the machine weaving, it usually takes seven or eight people, and it takes less time, but several months.




As a fabric whose value is comparable to gold, Shu brocade has been equated with expensive paintings since its birth.

How expensive is Shu brocade?

According to historical records, the brocade production in Sichuan has become an important industry during the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period.

In the Qin and Han Dynasties, Shu brocade has been well known throughout the country, and through the northwestern "Silk Road" which was opened by Zhang Qian to the western regions and European countries, the foreign trade of silk fabrics such as Shu brocade has become an important financial source of the past dynasties.

During the Three Kingdoms period, Shu Brocade was the main source of economy in the kingdom of Shu and Han. When Zhu Geliang was in the north, he proposed that "the capital of deciding the enemy should be praised only."

Sui and Tang Dynasties, Shu Brocade entered the peak period.

In Tang Xuanzong's Tianbao years, the vest of five colored silk woven in tribute to Sichuan, a piece of "cost 100 gold", was kept in the palace with special handicrafts like rhinoceros hairpin and warm gold.

During the Song Gaozong period, the tea brocade's own brocade workshop, the Shu Brocade produced could also be folded to the horse price.




Technically, the pioneering skills of Shu Brocade meridian or weft line have influenced the development of silk weaving technology in the later ages, and have extensive and profound influence on silk brocade industry.

Even in modern times, hand-made brocade brocade is worth a lot of money.

Even experienced artists can load two or three centimeters of brocade at an hour, so the cost is high and the price is high.

The length of the hand woven brocade brocade is about 10 meters, and the width is 67 centimeters. The market price is only 1 yuan per 1 meters.




Three




Change your mind and do your best.




In recent years, due to the shrinking market share, slow market expansion and low economic efficiency, it is difficult to adapt to the needs of modern commodity economy. Shu Brocade is facing an embarrassing situation that people lack technology and decline.




Due to information asymmetry, compared with the silk fabrics in the eastern region, Shu brocade, located in the southwest, has no advantage.




Moreover, at present, the problem of talent break is very prominent. Shu brocade weaving process is various. There are not many people who can settle down to learn brocade weaving skills.

Hu Guangjun, the representative of the Chinese Intangible Cultural Heritage brocade brocade, said: "fewer and fewer people will be able to do this handicraft now, and learning Shu Brocade will take a long time to learn basic operations in five or six years.

In order for this precious art to reproduce the glory of the past, if anyone wants to learn, I will teach him everything without reservation. "




In the view of Du Yichen, art director of the Shu Jiang academy, the traditional legacy is going to be carried out in the era of marketization. We must let it enter the market, so we can try some commercialized changes.

"Shu Brocade is still a very important industry.

Shu brocade has good genes, and traditional industries have their own characteristics.

Now it is a highly commercialized society. Shu Brocade can not compete in this small circle.

If competition has been only in the non heritage industry, the circle is too small to grow forever, so there must be a new vision.

For example, if you have bags, scarves and other products, you will have to compete with LV and Hermes, and turn the former horizontal competition to vertical competition.

Du Yichen said.




In view of the current problems of Shu brocade industry, Chen Xiangping, vice president of the China Silk Association and President of Sichuan Silk Association, proposed that in the activities of the brocade industry development and exchange forum held recently, Shu Brocade enterprises should strengthen exchanges, enhance consensus, embrace development and enhance publicity to enhance the influence and market discourse power of Shu Brocade in carrying out, protecting and promoting the brocade culture and weaving skills.




Fan Xiaomin, Secretary General of Sichuan Silk Association, said that in the face of the current situation and market demand of Shu brocade, brocade brocade should be "able to have talent". It is necessary to fully explore the connotation of Shu brocade, and to innovate and develop from all aspects, such as history, culture, production technology and market publicity, so as to achieve the goal of promoting the historical and cultural brand of Shu brocade.

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