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Inventory Of Luxury Brands In 2013

2013/12/23 12:02:00 27

LuxuryMarketFashion

< p > from the advertisement of fashion magazines, we can see the market trend of major brands from another angle < /p >


< p > < strong > < a > href= > //www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_p.asp > US > /a > Market: still the most important in the world < /strong > /p >


The American version of VOGUE, Happer 's Bazzar and ELLE of P > 2013 is known as the most heavyweight magazine in history.

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< p > comparing 18 magazines, each page of the US version of the magazine accounts for more than half of the magazine and even 2/3, and the absolute number of advertisements is also the highest in all parts of the world.

In contrast, China's 5 edition of the 9 monthly magazine accounts for about half of all advertisements in the US.

The Chinese version of ELLE is divided into two volumes, totaling 784 pages. The total number of pages is 126 pages more than that of the 658 page of the ELLE American edition. However, the two page of the former is 281 pages, while the latter is 442 pages.

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< p > the difference between the number of advertising pages, except for the low tolerance of Chinese readers to advertising, can be attributed to the difference in the number of brands advertised. Taking VOGUE as an example, there are 218 brands in the US version, while the number of Chinese advertising brands is only 113.

This means that in the last quarter of 2013 and early 2014, many brands chose to focus on the US market.

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< p > when many brands seek overseas market expansion opportunities outside the mainland, the mature and stable American market is still their first choice.

Alexis Mourot, chief operating officer of French footwear designer Christian Louboutin, told WWD in July 2013 that the United States is now the largest market for Christian Louboutin. If a European brand can not perform well in the US, it will be difficult to achieve success globally.

Analysts believe that the US market is favored by Europe's economic slump, and China's growth in the Asian market is limited.

< /p >


< p > some of the niche brands founded in the US and are well developed locally are also appearing in this year's 9 issue. For example, the designer brand Rag & Bone, founded in New York in 2002, published 2 pages of advertisements on GQ.

The trend of US manufacturing reflux also affects the garment manufacturing industry, and some of the brand's advertising copywriters emphasize "made in the United States".

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< p > < strong > China < a href= > //www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_s.asp > market < /a >: the good day for annual growth is over. < /strong > /p >


< p > by comparing the mainland versions of 5 magazines in 2012 and 2013, except for GQ, the proportion of the other 4 fashion magazines this year has declined to varying degrees compared with last year.

The absolute number of advertisements for VOGUE and ELLE has decreased.

In 2012, VOGUE's advertising page was 257 pages, and this year it was 239 pages; ELLE's two volumes last year had 344 pages of advertising, and only 281 pages this year.

The French ELLE group's sales in the first half of this year increased by 0.5% over the previous year, of which the revenue of French magazines dropped by 5.6%, and the print ads fell by 8.8% compared with the same period last year, while the circulation decreased by 7.6%.

But sales of Lagard re Active, a multi-media department, grew by 4.7% over the same period last year.

Mei Hua net, which provides advertising monitoring data, released a report in August this year, which showed that the advertising cost of Chinese fashion beauty clothing magazines decreased by 9.2% in the first half of 2013, the first half year negative growth since 2009.

< /p >


< p > at the same time, although the advertising position of core brands has not changed, the amount of advertisements they put in has decreased.

In 2012, Cartire made a 4 page cover page ad, but this year it only bought a back cover advertisement.

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< p > the reduction in brand advertising is directly related to the slowdown in China's economic growth last year.

In 2012, China's 7.8% growth was the lowest in 13 years. This slowdown is the most obvious blow to the clock industry.

According to the Swiss watch export data released by the Swiss watch Federation monthly, the output value of Swiss watches exported to mainland China fell 4.7% in August compared with 9.7% in July.

Except for a brief rebound in June, the rest of the first half of the year was in negative growth.

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< p > but it is worth noting that there are new local brands in China in the 9 issue.

For example, recently, LVMH, who was the second largest shareholder of the L fund under the name of LVMH, appeared in the 9 issue of the VOGUE mainland edition of China this year. 4 pages of advertisements were published, and 4 pages and 3 pages of advertisements were also published in the fashion bazaar and the mainland China version respectively.

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< p > < strong > designer brand: the Chinese market may be the future opportunity < /strong > /p >


< p > we classify all the large luxury brands which are not LVMH, Kering, and other famous luxury brands, which are small and independent in operation.

According to our statistics, the total number of 5 9 monthly magazine ads in the United States is 5%, the British version is 2.3%, the Hongkong and the Chinese version are 0.67% and 0.61%, respectively.

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< p > absence of mainland China Fashion 9 monthly < a href= "http://sjfzxm.com/DESIGN/designer/index.asp" > designer < /a > brand has 3.1 Phillip Lim, Proenza Schouler, Zadig&Voltaire, Helmut Helmut, hon, Hsin, and so on.

They are not only the designer brand but also the fastest growing brand in the fashion industry, of which 3.1 Phillip Lim has opened 6 stores in New York, Tokyo, Losangeles and Seoul in the past few years.

Although these brands have few or even no stores in China, they are already a hot brand on Taobao website.

Consumers may have heard of the brand name before, but have never met the formal consumption channels, and lack of a complete concept of brand names.

This is the current situation of designer brand in Chinese market.

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< p > the reason why designers favor American magazines is not only the reason of the market itself, but also because the latter is more mature and influential in excavating and assisting designers.

Anna Wintour, editor in chief of VOGUE in the fashion world, has brought many designers.

< /p >


Tan Wei, marketing director of P > GQ, told "first financial weekly" that the reason why designers' brand advertisements are rarely seen in domestic fashion magazines is that many designer brands still do not have independent stores in China. Even if there are agents who do business in Hongkong or the mainland, they can not generate advertising demand.

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In a report released by Bain consulting company in 2012, P said that Chinese consumers have become the world's leading luxury consumer groups. However, the main players in China's luxury market are still Louis Weedon, GUCCI, Burberry and Prada. The diversification of luxury brands is much lower than that of the United States.

Moreover, the sale of designer brand buyer shops such as Lian Crawford and 10 Corso commo is still short in China, and consumers are still in the breeding stage.

< /p >


< p > < strong > emerging brands: rising setbacks or gloomy departure, < /strong > /p >


Less than P, the brand of advertising launched in last year's China 9 monthly magazine has not been released this year.

Disappearing advertisements usually come from smaller designer brands or non luxury fashion brands.

Take VOGUE as an example, the 9 monthly magazine disappeared in 2013, such as Jiangnan Buyi and IgE and other smaller brands such as Gia and Frey Wille.

The original advertising location of these brands is in the latter half of the overall advertisement.

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< p > the United States and the British version also have a brand loss. One of the reasons is that some designer brands are more and more concerned about making their own magazines and online content. For example, the Swedish designer brand ACNE stopped advertising in 2006, and began to shift the marketing budget to its own editing and publishing of the Bi monthly lifestyle newspaper Acne Paper, each newspaper priced at 10 pounds, with a sales volume of 25 thousand copies per issue.

Meanwhile, MR. Porter, an online menswear sales website, also launched a print magazine Mr. Porter Post.

Both companies hope to influence people's lifestyle and influence the choice of clothing.

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< p > > a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_h.asp" > Fashion < /a > magazine advertising and content part is more integrated than ever before.

The OLAY CC cream has been running 5 pages of advertisements in the VOGUE American edition. The main character is a pair of jewelry designer sisters. The content is their activities in different scenes one day. The two sisters have changed their clothes and jewelry. The shooting and layout design are carried out according to the contents of the magazine. In addition to the Advertisement word of the header and footer and OLAY Logo, the OLAY CC cream is mentioned in many references, and it is highlighted in bold font.

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< p > some brands have pferred some of their advertising resources to new media. This trend has been obvious since last year, and the proportion of advertising for new media will continue to increase.

For example, MontBlanc did not advertise in the 9 monthly magazine this year and last year. Its global CEO Jerome Lambert said that MontBlanc will invest more in digital marketing next year and continue to shift some traditional print media budget to new media, which will account for 30% of the total media expenditure.

The light luxury brands also cut the budget of 9 monthly in Coach2013. In 2012, the total volume of 18 publications was only 6 pages plus a small volume in the Hongkong edition.

The US brand has always been willing to try new media, and now puts more budget into its own online stores and WeChat, micro-blog and other social platforms.

In the early 2013, when the lifestyle brand was pformed from luggage brand to brand name, the content of WeChat's account about life attitude and Coach attitude increased significantly.

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< p > < strong > luxury life coverage: the mainland is monotonous < /strong > < /p >.


In the < p > GQ China Version and the Esquire China Version, auto advertising accounts for 26.4% and 22.8% of the total advertising volume respectively.

The same advertising category is below 10% in the US, UK and Hongkong editions.

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< p > further analysis of the differences in automobile advertisements between China and other regions can be found that in addition to the absolute number of automobile advertisements, the Chinese version is 2 to 3 times that of the British and American versions, and there are also differences in automobile grades.

In the mainland China Edition, there are both advertisements of Cadillac, Jaguar and Porsche, as well as Volkswagen Skoda and Mazda.

But in the British and American edition and the Hongkong edition of the men's magazine, most of the advertisements on automobiles are mainly luxury cars, and there are few middle and low grade car brands.

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< p > the reason is that cars are still high-end consumer goods in China, and it is generally believed that readers of fashion magazines are more likely to belong to high-end groups.

In addition, China's automobile consumption market is still in the stage of buying the first car, and the understanding of the automobile brand is far less than that of the UK and the US.

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< p > on the other hand, the American version of VOGUE and ELLE has a wide variety of advertisements, not only for clothing softeners, hair removal and condom advertisements for women, but also for personal care and life service brands such as US postal service, baby trolley and Geico insurance company, but the mainland China Version of the 9 monthly life advertisement has a small number and has a wide range of hunting.

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< p > < strong > Chanel: contribute most advertising > /strong > /p >


< p > Chanel is the 4 most popular brand in the 9 monthly magazine of the 18 places in this year. It has published 99 pages of advertisements, followed by 58 pages by Armani.

Their products span clothing, makeup, skin care, watch and jewellery to handbags.

In addition, Chanel is more willing to advertise its rich and colorful cosmetics and skin care products than other luxury brands.

Taking the performance of the brand in the VOGUE version of the US as an example, 6 pages of fashion bag ads were published, and 2 pages of make-up advertisements and 2 pages of perfume advertisements were also published.

Looking at the three luxury goods groups LVMH, Kering (original PPR) and mount Feng, their advertisements tend to focus on a category of a brand, such as Bvlgari's LVMH with handbag based FENDI and watch jewellery. Advertising needs will not be concentrated on a single brand.

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< p > L'OREAL ranked first in 47 ads in the single skin care brand, followed by OLAY, Clinique and CLARINS.

The three brands belong to the public price skin care brand, and customers purchase more frequently, so the influence of advertisements on purchase decisions will be more obvious.

Most buyers of skin care and cosmetics brands show a dynamic "leaky bucket" feature.

In order to maintain growth, brands need to attract a large number of new buyers every year, partly to supplement the loss of buyers, and partly to achieve a net increase in the total number of buyers.

Because most consumers purchase frequency and repeat purchase rate is low, brands need to seize every opportunity consumers buy.

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