Chinese National Costume Culture -- Manchu Dress Culture

The Manchu ancestors lived between the white hills and the black waters. They chose the gowns with better package warmth as their daily clothing for a long time to adapt to the cold climate.

In the middle of Ming Dynasty, Manchu absorbed the coat of Han nationality in the Central Plains, and improved it into "national flag", also known as cheongsam.

After the founding of the Qing Dynasty, because of the mandatory promotion of the rulers of the Manchu rulers, the banner was adopted throughout the country, but it soon fused with the Han traditional costumes.

In the Republic of China, modern western fashion ingredients were added to form modern cheongsam with Chinese national characteristics.

Since twentieth Century, the Manchuria people

Great changes have taken place in culture and many traditional costumes are very rare.

Manchu ancestors were nomadic people. In the age of low barber technology, Manchu men chose braids as a hairstyle in order to adapt to the long hunting journey.

The practice is to shave the front part of the forehead first so as not to obscured the line of sight and facilitate archery or fighting.

The hair of the back is not to be issued, but to be braided into a braid for riding.

This kind of hairstyle was used by the rulers in the Qing Dynasty to make use of political means in the whole country.

In history, Manchu men wore more gowns with horseshoe sleeves, waist belts, or gowns with long gowns, and Xia Jitou wore cool caps.

The clothes are made of green, blue, brown and other colors of cotton, silk, silk, satin and other kinds of fabric materials, trouser legs are tied with green leg belts, feet wear cotton boots or leather boots, and winter wears leather.

Pigtail on top, shaving around the hair.

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Since twentieth Century, the Manchu economy and culture have undergone tremendous changes, and many traditional costumes have been very rare.

But from movies, TV and museums, we can often appreciate the style of the past.

Among them, women's heads are wide, long, fan-shaped, non crowned, and crowned with no crown. Chinese headgear is called "banner head" and Manchu language is called the "La La Chi" headwear. The whole world is unique to Manchu women, thus becoming a typical national dress feature, which is very eye-catching.

In the past, Manchu women had to learn to ride and shoot like boys when they were young. Hairdressing and boys also shaved off the hair around their heads, leaving only two hair braids for some hair and hanging on the temples until they reached adulthood at the age of 16.

After marriage, they began to have big pot heads, shelf heads and two heads, and two of them were typical.

The two is to put the hair on top of the head and divide it into two pieces, each into a bun, then the remaining hair into a swallow tail type long bun.

At ordinary times, the head hairpin, which is twenty or thirty centimeters long and two or three centimeters long, is called "big flat square". When it is on auspicious auspicious days or when guests are invited, it is necessary to wear the answer.

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[flag]

The "banner" Manchu language is called "La La Chi", which is worn by Manchu women in ceremonial ceremonies or wedding occasions.

The specific method is to use iron wire or bamboo and rattan as the hat rack, and use the green satin, the green velvet or the green yarn to cover the face, wrapped in a fan shaped headdress with a length of about more than 30 centimeters and a width of more than 10 centimeters.

When you wear it, you can fix it on the top of the bun.

It often embroiders designs, inserts jewelry or inserts the decoration each kind of flower, hangs the long tassel.

This headwear is mostly used by the upper women of Manchu nationality.

Wearing such a long ornament restricts the twisting of the neck, straightens up the body, and adds long cheongsam and high flags, so that they can walk in a delicate and graceful way.

[horseshoe shoes]

Besides "Qipao" and "answering La Chi", Manchu women's flag shoes are also very characteristic.

In the past, Manchu women were different from Han women. They advocated vigorous strength, mountaineering and horse riding, refused to bind feet and bad habits, and the beauty of feet and feet.

As a result, there is ample room for creating shoes and stockings, and "flag shoes" are thus produced.

This kind of decoration is made of beautiful Embroidered Flag shoes with wood as its sole and its shoes roots in the center. These shoes are commonly known as "flag shoes" or commonly known as "high floor shoes".

There are two main types of "high floor shoes", one is "flower pot bottom" shoes, the other is "horseshoe bottom".

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Its wood bottom heel is generally about 5-10 centimeters, some can reach 14-16 centimeters, the highest can reach 25 centimeters.

Usually wrapped in white cloth, then placed in the middle of the sole of the shoe.

Two different styles are usually distinguished from the shape of the bottom: one is the upper open and the lower, the bottom is oval. The shape of the inverted ladder looks far like the flowerpot, the other is the upper and the lower width, the front is flat and the circle is round, the shape and the floor mark are all inverted horseshoe prints.

"Flower pot bottom" and "horseshoe bottom" are named as "high floor shoes".

Besides the embroidered patterns or decorative pieces such as cicadas and butterflies, wooden parts are often decorated with embroidery, gold or silver or beads.

Some of the shoes are also decorated with silk balls or tassels.

The heel of these shoes is strong, often with broken shoes, and sole still intact.

High floor flag shoes are mostly Manchu youth and middle-aged women who are over sixteen years old. They are worn on ceremonial occasions. The flag shoes of old women are mostly flat wood, and they are called "flat shoes", which are slightly cut at the front of the ground so that they can walk.

In the bureaucratic aristocracy, no matter young, middle-aged or elderly women can wear high floor shoes.

In modern society, these shoes are no longer worn except for theatrical performances.

Manchu people have had the custom of "cutting wood for action" since ancient times.

There are many versions of the origin of this high sole shoe.

According to one theory, in the past Manchu women often gathered wild fruits and mushrooms on the mountain to bite insects and snakes, and then tied up wooden blocks on their soles.

In addition, there is a legend that the ancestors of Manchu people learned the appearance of white crane and tied high tree branches on their shoes in order to cross the mud pit and take back the city occupied by the enemy. Finally, they won the victory and achieved the goal of revenge and growth.

In order not to forget those miserable days and commemorate the merits of high heel shoes, women put on these shoes and passed on from generation to generation.

Qing Dynasty

In history, Manchu men like to wear blue and blue long fashions, which are quite different from those of Manchu women in the past.

In the Qing Dynasty, full style clothes were popular throughout the country.

Manchu women do not have foot binding, shoes embroidered with beautiful flower decorations, the sole of the shoe has 10 centimeters of wooden heels in the center, and Manchu women wear such shoes to walk. They can keep their heads up and their waisted gait.

Manchu women's hairstyles vary greatly. In the age of girls, they simply put their hair behind their heads.

When you get married, you have to comb your hair into braid and wear it into a single bun. After the wedding, you have double bun, single bun and so on. Double bun hairstyle comb the hair from top to top two parts.

The front bun is combed into a flat top, so that it can wear a crown, and the back of the neck will be dovetail shaped, extending around the back of the tibia. It keeps the neck straight. Therefore, the Manchu women will become more dignified and dignified when they walk.

Cheongsam is a dress worn by Manchu men, women, old and young all year round. It is simple in cutting, wide in collar, wide in front and back, narrow in sleeves, long in four pieces, and long in clothing, easy to dismount; narrow sleeves are convenient for archery.

Because of the horseshoe shaped sleeves attached to the sleeves, it is also known as the horseshoe sleeve.

After the Manchu people were gradually separated from their career of riding and shooting, the horseshoe sleeves had been decorated, and the lowering of the horseshoe sleeves was still the ritual of the Manchu people to salute the elders and the respecting people.

The decoration of women's Qipao is stronger than that of men's Qipao.

The collar, front and cuffs are decorated with embroidery.

With the changes of the times, the cheongsam style has changed a lot. Four pieces of cutting have been changed to two pieces.

Cheongsam can well show women's figure and curve.

The picture shows Manchu women's waistcoat worn in Qipao coat.

Embroidered with exquisite designs.

The Manchu women who wear cheongsam and dance in court.

Men wearing traditional Manchu cheongsam included gowns with arrow sleeves and a vest and Manchu men's hats.

Manchu men and women are very particular about headwear, especially the headwear of women, and they wear hair and BUN after they grow up. The style of the bun is a rack head, a fork head and two heads.

Manchu women wear flat topped hats, hats and skins, embroidered with cloud patterns, with a brim and a large ribbon around them. Young women prefer a coronal crown with black crown, made of green velvet, plain satin or yarn, also known as "flag head".

Manchu men wear small cap and felt hat on weekdays: small cap is also a hat, commonly known as the "leather cap", is made of six petals of black satin, the top of the hat is decorated with a knot or bead, and the six joints sew together, symbolizing the unity of Liuhe and auspicious.