Slub Denim Production: How To Design Denim Style 3
Production focus and quality control
3.1 Preparation process;
3.1.2 Properly remove slub yarn defects; After long-term exploration and practice, the following points are summarized for reference only:
3.1.2.1 The yarn number shall be set based on the average number of slubs.
3.1.2.2 The threshold setting of short slub S is very important. Roughness is generally set as: slub size × 1.3 ÷ average number × 100%, and the length is determined according to the original yarn situation and the slub length, generally set within 5cm;
3.1.2.3 Close the threshold of long thick joint L and long detail T to avoid too many false cuts;
3.1.3. Management in place;
3.1.3.1 The splicing quality of the air splicer shall be qualified, and attention shall be paid not to joint at the coarse joint during operation.
3.1.3.2 The winding and warping processes shall be cleaned in time to reduce the large knots caused by the attachment of flying flowers.
3.1.3.3 The slub yarn with the same yarn number but different pitch length and pitch shall be distinguished by name, and the standard weaving shall be strengthened. The tube color used shall be eye-catching and easy to distinguish, so as to reduce the occurrence of wrong count.
3.2. Pulping and dyeing process;
3.2.1 Position of warp shaft; When configuring the warp beam, the slubby yarn should be placed in sections to facilitate tension adjustment. In addition, the slubby warp beam should be placed in the middle of the normal yarn as far as possible to reduce yarn winding and breakage.
3.2.2 The temperature of the cooking tank and the concentration of additives can be properly reduced.
3.2.3 On the premise of ensuring smooth wet split, try to use small tension between all levels of the whole machine.
3.2.4 The selection of slurry shall follow the principle of high consistency and low viscosity, and the hairiness regeneration during dry splitting shall be minimized.
3.2.5 Due to the long hairiness of slub yarn, the guide rollers and rolls at all levels should be cleaned before starting up to prevent sticking and breaking ends.
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3.3 Weaving process;
3.3.1 Due to the large difference in the thickness of slub varieties, it is difficult to receive warp, so yarn shall be combed carefully, needle number shall be selected reasonably, head swing, double head and bit shall be reduced, and the cloth surface shall be checked carefully before starting up the upper shaft to prevent double warp defects and ensure the quality of upper shaft.
3.3.2 The tension of each machine and the process of loading shall be standardized and unified, otherwise the style of fabric knots will be affected, especially for the varieties of weft bamboo. The inspection of fabric loading shall be strengthened, and the process shall be adjusted timely according to the situation to ensure the uniform and stable fabric style.
3.3.4 When weft slub varieties are produced on air jet looms, weft stoppage is relatively high, so reasonable selection shall be made as far as possible.
3.3.5. The zonal slub varieties are prone to produce regular defects with excessive concentration and overlap of slubs. The following points should be noted:
3.3.5.1 The weft slub yarn must be irregular.
3.3.5.2 Two or more weft storage devices are used for the slubs to make the slubs be used alternately and reduce the coincidence probability.
3.3.5.3、 Slub yarn Set irregular weft insertion ratio to increase the randomness of weft insertion.
3.3.5.4 The slub period shall not become an integral multiple of the width.
3.3.5.5 The same slub yarn is used to make weft yarn of different varieties. Due to the influence of the proportion and width, the probability of regular defects is different. Therefore, when weft slub yarn is used on the machine, it should be checked in time and adjusted in case of problems.
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