Can We Live Without Customized Fashion Houses? Houses&Nbsp; Of&Nbsp; Glory

The last fashion house

Like a late beauty, the advanced customization industry is gradually aging with our own eyes.

On the surface, fashion week seems to have returned to the right track a year later (or at the 2008 level). Chanel returned to The Grand Palace and Dior left 30 Montaigne Avenue.

But it is undeniable that most of the fashion houses have reduced the size of the press conference and strictly controlled the number of invitations and shows.

Dior's tent set up in Musee Rodin is exquisite and beautiful. Don't forget, 10 years ago, its other show occupied the whole wing of Palace of Versailles. Givenchy gave up the model of the model and chose to publish 10 sets of skirts inspired by religion and anatomy in static form. The bone shaped beads and embroidery symbolized death.

The media has always been happy to hype the existence of advanced customization, and has gathered before her bed every once in a while to declare her death loudly.

As expected, in the past ten years, fashion houses including Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro and Hanae Mori have bid farewell to the custom service business.

As for the six or seven remaining fashion houses, none of them can make profits from the advanced customization. The loss is usually compensated by the huge publicity benefits brought by the holding of the press conference.

The custom suit stands in the opposite of the business, the pursuit of perfection, the insistence on the tradition, and the spirit of our time.

In fact, in the "brand" time of the road, even the word "fashion house" is also emanating a strong nostalgic taste, suggestive of a perfume smelling salon and a middle-aged female tailor in white gown.

Of course, fashion houses have different views.

Jean Paul Gaultier claims that 2010 spring and summer is the best selling season since its first step in advanced customization, and Karl Lagerfeld bluntly said "only those who are eliminated by the industry are cursing the future of customized clothes."

The recent reports of women's wear daily show that the number of customers and orders has increased in all the fashion houses this year. Some workshops are still tightening up the orders of the previous series.

A few days before the launch of the new series, it is located in the Kang Peng street.

Minority Games

In the world of $100 thousand dress, two times a year's advanced custom show can always bring you some new revelations about luxury.

Here, nobody knows the name of Bethy Lagardere and SusanGutfreund. Everyone knows that DaphneGuinness, today's top rated customer, bought a complete collection of Isabella Blow not long ago.

When rich people's fashionable life is no longer a secret, what is new luxury? Is it valuable privacy or a time to gaze at a Chinese dress?

In a resplendent suite in wendomme square, Riccardo Tisci, with a small group of guests previewing Givenchy's new series, explained why he gave up the T show.

"My design is exquisite to every detail.

The most beautiful thing you can see on a stretches is a lace skirt. Only after close observation can you understand why it needs 1600 working hours.

He said, "and a small show allows me to talk to everyone in person, so that's fine."

Advanced customization is the only service provided by the fashion house to communicate with individuals. "Individual" refers to the customers.

Although fashion week attracts thousands of fashion editors to Paris every season, but because of the relationship between wealth and lifestyle, they are not uniformed customers. Therefore, you can say that no matter how well they know about this line, they are still blocked out of this circle, to some extent, an outsider.

Admittedly, editors can interview Anne Bass, Deeda Blair and other "buying age" customers for half a century. However, there is still an incomparable gap between the real experience of speaking and fitting rooms.

In 2005, when Giorgio Armani opened the uniform series, it was named "Armani Priv". Priv means privacy in French.

In every fashion house, customers have special salons and passageways, and others do not make river water.

In a recent blog by New York Times Fashion Critic Cathy Horyn, she recalls the experience of visiting Nan SaintLaurent and other celebrities who went to Yves SaintLaurent to buy clothes in the past: "their perspective on fashion is totally different from mine."

These women are buying new season wardrobes. "

If the word "Wardrobe" has repeatedly appeared in the mouth of designers, we may have forgotten that these costumes do not exist in dreams and in the stage, but can be worn repeatedly.

"Custom clothes are not just cocktail dresses and evening wear. You can also find coats and coats here."

Valentino designer Maria Grazia Chiuri said.

By using lightweight fabrics and cutting the length of skirts to the roots of the thighs, Chiuri creates the lightness and softness of the A shaped garments, but also leads to the criticism of older female audiences.

But the beauty of advanced customization lies in the fact that customers can request fashion houses to improve their display styles according to their personal preferences.

Having said that, if Kempner is still alive, how should she feel when faced with a dress that is only suitable for the night? Once a celebrity bought a home dress, a lunch set, a riding suit and a ski suit from the fashion house. Now, the declining trend of the Japanese dress has been hard to save. With the economic situation rising, the return of the dinner party will mean more evening gowns on the T stage.

For this season, the dress is full of Dior and Givenchy's new series, and even a pair of trousers can't be seen. Trousers are only a glance at the Gaultier and Armani shows, and are regarded as endangered species by the International Herald Tribune Fashion Critic SuzyMenkes.

Unsustainable tradition

Due to the increased cost of show and the improvement of employee benefits, today's uniform price is ten times higher than that of 1960s. At that time, it was just an order of Mona von Bismarck (the American celebrity would even order gardening clothes to keep her elegance while playing with the flowers and plants), so that Balenciaga's workshops could be busy until the night.

Every fashion house has such a rich wife. Their anecdotes are quite legendary nowadays. One of the customers of Yves Saint Laurent is a black and white princess with two colors. Every time they come to the fitting room, they do not ride on a black Rolls-Royce or a white Rolls-Royce. A customer of Chanel always comes with the maid, the latter has only one task - to keep the hostess's pearl necklace.

Today, private aircraft have taken the place of maids.

The poorest newcomers are from all over the world. Although they cherish the same tradition and quality as their predecessors, no one will "not customize them". No one will be as sad as von Bismarck, who will be closed for three days because they heard that Balenciaga retired.

The new generation of customers do not have to report to Paris two times a year. The fashion house will send tailors to their cities.

As Dior President Sidney Toledano said, "young people pay attention to efficiency."

However, advanced customization advocates just slow work and meticulous work and respect for tradition. It takes an average of more than 100 hours to complete a suit, not to mention the three necessary fitting.

The other side effect of excessive pursuit of efficiency is that designers lose their prestige in the past.

In the past, Chanel's taste was unquestioned. Dior was a tyrant who manipulated the trend. During the ten years he had been in office, he had an absolute right to raise his or her skirt by one inch, or to tighten the waist line or to relax.

Nowadays, no designer has such influence.

John Galliano blamed it on the heavy workload of modern designers. How long do you need to launch 16 series a year? How can you study a profile like CristobalBalenciaga and keep improving the width of sleeves?

Unless it is in the creation of customized service series, everything can be repeated.

If designers need to integrate into the fashion factor and business balance consideration when designing a series of garments, once they come to the customization field, the real promotion of their creation is still tailoring, proportion, exploration of new design directions and the display of their workshops skills.

This season, Galliano developed an entire flower series on the basis of tulips on Dior, which vividly reproduce the three-dimensional shape and gloomy colors of the plants in the skirt design.

In contrast, Lagerfeld depicted a simpler line: an exaggerated rounded shoulder line and a raised waistline.

But then, the question arises: how does this contour develop below the waist, close to the body, or spread to the sides of the body in a more radical way? Lagerfeld intuitively found the answer.